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Thursday 22 November 2012

Influential Fragrances of the History continues…

What better than embracing a scent of charm and sensuality all over you and fashioning a remembrance in the minds and hearts of those who won’t resist you.

Hello! I’m back with the continuing list of the most influential perfumes of the history. The list gets even bigger and better and my love and fascination for this amazing world of fragrances gets more profound.
Here’s to join the list:

1.    L’Heure Bleue (Guerlain, perfumer Jacques Guerlain, 1912)
 
Even though L’Heure Bleue was stirred by Coty L’Origan, it did not just reiterate the floral oriental theme, but enhanced and built further upon it. L’Origan has a spectacular, bold character, but L’Heure Bleue is the quintessence of sophistication. It is also astonishingly glowing and vivid, in spite of all of the rich, heavy notes that go into it. Its silage is amongst the most gorgeous—intense, unforgettable, radiant. It’s the first Guerlain perfume to exploit aldehydes to give a boost to the rich floral accord. Carnation, ylang-ylang and anise pioneer L’Heure Bleue, but immediately one is awaken by the plush iris, vanilla and musk that form its dry down. L’Heure Bleue encouraged many perfumers and continues to do so. It is one of Sophia Grojsman’s favorite fragrances, and her Kenzo Kashaya, Lagerfeld Sun, Moon, Stars and Laura Biagotti Sotto Vocewere inspired by its structure of plush richness and opulent floral notes.

2.    Narcisse Noir (Caron, perfumer Ernest Daltroff, 1912)

With orange bloom quiescent addicted to a fiery oriental pact, Narcisse Noir has a idiosyncratic Art Deco sensation, a true newborn of its epoch. Like Coty, Daltroff was audacious when it came to using brawny, striking possessions and discovering curious contrasts. The spicy oriental genus initiated by Narcisse Noire fashioned fragrances like Dana Tabu, Estée Lauder Youth Dew, Jean Desprez Bal à Versailles and Lancôme Magie Noire. 


3.    Guerlain Mitsouko (Guerlain, perfumer Jacques Guerlain, 1919)
 
The most celebrated progeny of Coty Chypre, Mitsouko seized the thought following its legendary ancestor—a brilliant citrusy top, multifarious floral sensitivity, buoyancy of oakmoss and the luxury of amber and animalic notes – and made it chic and sophisticated.  A traditional Guerlinade accord of tonka bean, vanilla, iris and rose further polished and smoothed out Mitsouko, lending it a luscious, teasing gourmand stir. Mitsouko enthused classics likeRochas Femme, Guerlain Chant d’Arômes, Yves Saint Laurent Y, Yves Saint Laurent Champagne/Yvresse. Today, its influence is felt in Gucci Rush, Jean Patou Enjoy, and to an extent, in Guerlain Idylle.


4.    Chanel No 5 (Chanel, perfumer Ernest Beaux, 1921)
 
I do not deem in the conception that “witty marketing” is the raison d'être behind the sensation of No 5. This scent remains iconic, because it is a beautiful paradigm of perfumery craft. For the entire natter concerning the aldehydes in Chanel No 5, what makes this fragrance exceptional is its poise of concurrences: the sparkling aldehydes, the affluent ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose and iris, the soft vanillin and the affectionate animalic notes. It is an elegant, intricate fragrance that has a stunning maturity and an unforgettable signature. Chanel No 5 has a very unique character, and it inspired Lanvin Arpège (1927,) which preserved the aldehydic floral accord of No 5, but recons trued the milieu to give a wealthier woody effect. This novelty led to such great creations as Hermès Calèche, Madame Rochas, Paco Rabanne Calandre and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. 




5.    Shalimar (Guerlain, perfumer Jacques Guerlain, 1925)
 
If I had used a great deal of vanilla, I would have come up with only a custard sauce, whereas Jacques Guerlain fashions Shalimar! (si j’avais utilisé autant de vanille, j’aurais seulement obtenu une crème anglaise, tandis que lui, Jacques  Guerlain, créa Shalimar! ),” said Ernest Beaux, creator of No 5, thus giving his famed tribute to Shalimar. It is not possible to articulate of the oriental fragrances and not refer to Guerlain Shalimar. The terrific facet of Shalimar is its classical 19th century arrangement of a citrusy scent harmonizing with a rich oriental accord of vanilla, tonka bean, musk and castoreum.  Even at present, after nearly a century gone, a veer of broods and copycats, Shalimar still seems inimitable. It initiated an assorted family: the leathery-animalic orientals like Must de Cartier (1981), the connoisseur of orientals like Chopard Casmir (1991) and Thierry Mugler Angel (1993), and the fruity orientals like Chanel Allure (1996). Modern niche launches like Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur, Cartier L’Heure Mystérieuse and Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée pay a predominantly fascinating accolade to Shalimar.

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