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Tuesday 20 November 2012

Influential fragrances of the history



I was just reading recently about the compilation of feminine and masculine fragrances that influence the course of perfume history. Now, there are several criterion to select the fragrances below; they have to be responsible for setting a new trend either due to their olfactive character or their novel use of raw materials and they have to be recognized as trendsetting by industry professionals namely, perfumers.

Now I’m going to give you the list of top 4 fragrances that lived on and created history. The list included both masculine as well as feminine fragrances and is in a chronological order:







 1. Fougere Royale (Houbigant, perfumer Paul Parquet, 1882) M

Fougère Royale was a revolutionary perfume, in that it was the first fragrance ever to be combining natural essences with synthetics. In order to create a dreamy concord of fern (fougère in French), Paul Parquet added the synthetic material coumarin to the classical eau de cologne accord of citrus, lavender and geranium. The rich notes of amber, musk and oakmoss completed the composition, thus giving birth to a family of fragrances called fougère. It is at present amid the most coveted fragrance families, and the dramatic harmony of different elements has influenced numerous fragrances, such as Dana Canoë (1935),Yves Saint Laurent Kouros(1981), Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir (1982) and Davidoff Cool Water (1988). 

2. Jicky (Guerlain, perfumer Aime Guerlain , 1889)

Guerlain experimented with synthetic components in various perfumes after the launch of Houbigant Fougère Royale in 1882. Fragrances like Arome Synthétique de Fleurs d’Espagne and Arôme Synthétique de Fleurs de Champs (both from 1883) disappeared long ago, but Jicky lives on. It used a combination of coumarin and vanillin to give a new dimension to its vibrant citrusy-herbal structure. Yet, the newly discovered synthetics were not the only thing that made Jicky fascinating. It used a combination of elements that would eventually give Guerlain its distinctive signature—the modern freshness of citrus and aromatics, the seductive warmth of the oriental accord and a teasing gourmand sweetness. Jicky gave birth to the family that produced such distinctive and trendsetting fragrances as Guerlain Shalimar (1925), Chanel Bois des Iles (1926), Must de Cartier (1981), and Christian Dior Dune (1992).

3. L’Origan (Coty, perfumer François Coty, 1906) discontinued

An originator of L’Heure Bleue (1912), L’Origan customized a completely new style of fragrance—floral orientals. It combined the seductive affluence of a classical oriental accord with the vivacity of florals (orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, carnation.) The conduit between the dominant elements is the woody asceticism of vetiver and methyl ionone (an aroma-material that combined the sweetness of violet and the darkness of woods). L’Origan can claim Oscar de la Renta (1976), Vanderbilt (1981), Dior Poison (1985), and Cacharel Loulou (1987) as its children.

4. Quelques Fleurs (Houbigant, perfumer Robert Bienaimé , 1912)

Smell the original Q.F, and swiftly it all becomes very lucid, one hint delineates of the future Jean Patou Joy and even blends like Evyan White Shoulders and Revlon Charlie. Even though the fragrance has been on a sturdy turn down along with the house of Houbigant all through the 20th century, it is a noteworthy composition that had to be included for the girth of its influence. Fashioned by Robert Bienaimé, it was a lush, opulent floral bouquet, but it was the inclusion of aldehydes (particularly aldehyde C-12 MNA) that gave the florals a boost and radiance. Ernest Beaux, who then created Chanel No 5, and Henri Alméras, the author of Joy, were both quite taken with Quelques Fleurs and paid reverence to it with their own creations.

Stay logged in for the next 5 in the list of most inspirational perfumes!

2 comments:

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  2. Known as the most expensive perfumes in the world, Jean Patou has left an indelible mark on the fragrance market with Joy Perfume. From his humble beginnings after World War I and the Wall Street Crash, he raised the bar of luxury in spite of difficult times and inspired the women of America with his jean patou perfumes.

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